Tuesday 31 October 2017

Namibia et el - A Summary

From my perspective and, I'm sure all of the participants, my first Southern Africa trip was a great success.
Namibia was amazing and I can safely add it to the list of places that I wish to return to.

The birding was wonderful and we also had many great views of mammals. Etosha, in particular, is an amazing park and worth much more time. 

Elago [left] & Vince
Our accommodations were all very good and for the most part I would return to all. Our safari vehicle was very good, save a few issues with air con. It was roomy and high and offered great viewing which to my mind are the most important issues.

Our Namibia driver/ guide, Elago, while not a birder was simply, excellent, a great ambassador for Namibia and his company, Karibu. He proved to be an intelligent, thoughtful and well informed guide. Better though was his patience, which was proven again and again, and his enthusiasm and energy. I welcome travelling with him again and would certainly request him.

Mike not in Africa
Credit must be given, too, to my good friend and our guide, Mike Mathieson. Mike is a great birder, naturalist and scientist and a southern African veteran and was an obvious and excellent choice for guide. We identified many bird species because of Mike's knowledge and persistence. I thank him for his efforts on tour and his constant 'encouragement' to venture down to southern Africa. I truly hope I can return!

My main criticism of the tour was concerned with food, that is, there was simply too much! Now that seems like an odd criticism however with the benefit of hindsight, and certainly in the future I would micro-manage the meals more; seeking more picnic lunches and less ‘sit-down three course ones’. On a couple of occasions the day seemed overly rushed as we had to ‘speed’ to make lunch appointments. I appreciate that sometimes this may have been avoidable however when avoidable I would have requested it. I would also have asked for the provision of folding chairs to make picnic lunches a little more comfortable.

The summary of our tour and the all-important bird of the days follow;

A Checklist of the birds seen in South Africa and Namibia will be included in another document.

Monday 30 October 2017

28 October - Caprivi River Lodge [Namibia] to Livingstone, Zambia


My accommodation at the Caprivi River Lodge
Our second last night in Africa was spent at the Caprivi River Lodge, a well maintained garden filled with bungalows like the one above. looking over the Zambezi River into Zambia.

Our host was an elderly Irish lady whose accent, despite her 1975 arrival onto the dark continent, was still as strong as she left. Her name was [and is] Mary. There was just 'something about her'. It was a reference that she had not heard of. Her husband, a [white] native of Kenya was on safari in Malawi she explained. So it just her and her 'coloured staff'. 

And a couple of her friends who she had over for a late friday night supper.

Mike and I had the opportunity to listen to some 'old school' perspectives.

I commented on one of the dining chairs, made of a very heavy dark timber and commented on its weight by saying, "these are too heavy to steal".

An immediate response from Mary's friend, "Nothing is too heavy to steal for these bastards. I just wish all of them would just die. And if that sounds racist so be it."

She then went on to list the value of the things she had had stolen as she dined on a meal cooked and prepared by black African women. On a table that had been laid and, no doubt, would be cleared by black African women. On plated that would be cleaned by black African Women. Surrounded by a garden that had been tended by black African men.

She had emigrated [proudly?] from South Africa.

Delightful. I was pleased only that she had saved her bile from the ears of our wonderful guide and driver, Elago.

In the morning we went birding in the gardens and not far outside. The Turacos remained invisible sadly however we did see some good birds. A few finches, Klaas's Cuckoo which was called in, our first Lizard Buzzards etc.
Blue Waxbill or Southern Cordon Bleu
Red billed Firefinch [our first]
Brown Firefinch
Lizard Buzzard
Klaas's Cuckoo
Klaas's Cuckoo
Yellow bellied Greenbul
Tawny Flanked Prinia
Black collared Barbets

Soon though we were on our way to a new nation, Zambia.
The bridge across the Zambezi River to Zambia

We had not long crossed the border when the road went horribly wrong and turned into a potholed hell. For hours we slowly bumped and swerved on 'the road to Livingstone' - a phrase that will forever bring an involuntary shudder to all that survived it.
We paid a price to avoid Zimbabwe...

The road trip was only broken by a picnic lunch held roadside; our leftovers being donated to a roadside family, living without electricity but much dust. The matriarch of the family thanked us for the food in english before hanging the bag without inspection to a pole form her hut.

Livingstone, the town you're presuming, was bi-passed, to visit another english name in Africa - Victoria. Victoria Falls is very much a noun. We knew were visiting in the dry and we were left to imagine what the falls would look, sound and feel like in the glory of the wet.
Victoria Falls - well, part of it

A bridge linking the nations of Zambia and Zimbabwe, crossing the Zambezi below the falls 

The Canadian Davidsons in front of the main falls at Victoria Falls, Zambia [a picture for the Arrow Lake News?]

Our last elephants in Africa - between Victoria Falls and Livingstone

BIRD OF THE DAY!! - TRUMPETER HORNBILL [pic by Vince Lee]





27 October - Xaro Lodge to Caprivi River Lodge


The charming Maribou Stork

Today's drive



Sable Antelope crossing

a poor pic of elephants crossing


part of a large herd crossing


part of our lodge overlooking the Zambezi
BIRD OF THE DAY - Schalow's Turaco [Vince Lee]

our first Brown hooded Kingfisher

26 October - Xaro Lodge


Xaro Lodge [rom their website]

Luxurious and tranquil, Xaro Lodge is situated on the banks of the Okavango River, where Africa is still wild. Here you awake to the call of fish eagles, share your meals with robin chats and babblers, and watch skimmers shear the smooth surface of the river while you enjoy some of the most magnificent sunsets Africa has on offer.

While its remote location makes for total peace and quiet, every element of guest comfort is seen to in meru-styled luxury tents with en-suite bathrooms. Lounge in bed while absorbing the view through the glass sliding door, enjoy your early morning coffee on your own private patio, or stroll along the riverbank to the open air dining area, where all meals are served. Grab a book from the library and relax in the lounge overlooking the river, while local fishermen drift by silently in a mokoro, hoping for their daily catch.

A scenic boat cruise on the Okavango is an experience not to be missed, and while absorbing the splendour of water lilies and papyrus beds growing in the crystal clear water of the Delta, one may get a glimpse of the ever shy sitatunga. Keen birders will be excited by the possibility of spotting Pel’s Fishing Owl or White backed night Heron. Fisherman can cast their lines in the hope of hooking bream, barbel or the ever ferocious tiger fish. Back at the lodge guests can cool down in the swimming pool and relax around the campfire while reminiscing about the day’s events.

Location

Xaro Lodge is situated in the North-Western panhandle of the Okavango Delta, and can only be reached by boat. Guests travel by road or air to Drotsky’s Cabins, 9km north of Xaro Lodge, and from there enjoy a 30 minute boat ride to the lodge.


View from the Lodge
Southern Carmine Bee-eater

White browed Robin chat






Epaulette Bat

Crested Barbet
BIRD OF THE DAY! African Barred Owlet

Birding on the island behind the Lodge

Starling
Skimmer Beach

White fronted Bee-eater
Grey Go-away Bird
Giant Kingfisher
Long toed Lapwing
Copper backed Coucal
White fronted Bee-eater
Bank of nests of Carine Bee-eater
Carmine Bee-eaters
Yellow billed Kite
Yellow billed Kite beach
Elephants from our boat
warning sign?

White backed Night Heron
Sitatunga
Sitatunga
Collared Pratincole




Collared Pratincole